Static hangs on boards BIATI hangboards are ideal training tool for endurance climbers as well as the beginners. Thanks to the shape and size of the hangboards, the finger pockets (single finger) of various sizes and slopers they are ideal for developing the strength of the palms, fingers, forearms, arms, shoulders, back and abdominal muscles. If you find the crimps and holes on their underside a bit sharp, simply round them with sandpaper for the wood as it suits you best during training.
It is possible to train the maximum strength (ideal for bouldering) as well as endurance (for longer climbing) with the hangboard. Ideally, you alternate the three types of grips – open grip (open palm), semi-open grip (semi-open palm) and closed grip (closed palm) in your training. It is important to stretch, loosen up the fingers, and warm up the forearms on large jugs, slopers, and rounded edges before the exercise.
The most effective training can be achieved by doing the static hangs in a slightly bent position while pulling up through your shoulders and back, tensing abdominal muscles, head tilting slightly back, and looking forward. We recommend using the application with the exercise for better effectivity and for determining, the time spent in hang position (in seconds), the rest time between the repetitions (in seconds), the number of sets, and the length of rest between the hangs (in minutes). Various applications are available online so do not waste your time trying to discover something that has already been invented.
The maximum strength training is hangs on bigger boards at the level of at least 70% of your current maximum. It is important that you gradually reduce the rest times between repetitions. The ideal time for static hangs is 5 – 10 seconds with the rest between sets at least 2 minutes. Then you change the grips and repeat the training.
The strength endurance training can be achieved through gradual increase of time in static hangs (each person individually according to their feeling) and gradual reduction of rest time between the repetitions. Longer rest time in between each repetition is very important.
It is ideal to use the liquid magnesium during the training.
Do not forget to stretch properly after each training session.
With a little determination, you might feel a significant progress already after a month of regular training but remember that you must never exercise through the pain to avoid injury.